羊绒服装产业危害生物多样性

A new study by the Wildlife Conservation Society and Snow Leopard ¹ Trust reveals a disturbing link between the cashmere（羊绒） trade and the decay of ecosystems ² that support some of the planet's most spectacular yet little-known large mammals. The study finds that as pastoralists（牧民） expand goat herds ³ to increase profits for the cashmere trade in Western markets, wildlife icons ⁴ from the Tibetan Plateau to Mongolia suffer -- including endangered snow leopard, wild yak ⁵, chiru（藏羚羊）, saiga（赛加羚羊）, Bactrian camel, gazelles（瞪羚）, and other remarkable ⁶ but already endangered species of remote Central Asia. Ecological ⁷ effects of the growth in goat herds include increasing conflicts with pastoralists, predation by dogs on wildlife, retaliatory⁸（报复的） killing ⁹ of snow leopards ¹⁰, and displacement ¹¹ of wildlife away from critical food habitats., ,The study appears in the August issue of the journal Conservation Biology. Authors include: Joel Berger of WCS and University of Montana, Bayarbaatar Buuveibaatar of WCS Mongolia, and Charudutt Mishra of the Snow Leopard Trust., ,Goats from this region produce high-quality fibers ¹² that, when processed into cashmere, are highly sought by western consumers. With 90 percent of the world's cashmere emanating ¹³ from China and Mongolia, the vast highlands and open spaces that once were populated by wild camel and wild yak, Przewalski's horse, chiru, saiga antelope ¹⁴, Tibetan gazelle, kiang, khulan, and snow leopard are increasingly dominated by domestic goats and other livestock ¹⁵., ,The study results from fieldwork in India, western China, and Mongolia and builds upon economic data including herder profits, changes in livestock numbers, and the relative abundance of wildlife., ,"The consequences are dramatic and negative for iconic species that governments have signed legislation to protect, yet the wildlife is continually being squeezed into a no-win situation," says lead author, Joel Berger, a biologist for the Wildlife Conservation Society and professor at University of Montana. "Herders are doing what we would do -- just trying to improve their livelihoods ¹⁶, and who can blame them?", ,The purpose of the study is to raise awareness ¹⁷ among western consumers about the origins of cashmere and its growing impact on wildlife. The authors suggest that the study should serve as the beginning of a dialog among the garment industry, cashmere herders, and conservationists to address and mitigate ¹⁸ these impacts., ,WCS has already begun to help tackle the problem by engaging with the Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform (RESP), a public-private partnership ¹⁹ initiative aimed at addressing sustainability issues from the beginning to the end of select supply chains across the fashion, cosmetics²⁰（化妆品） and jewelry ²¹ industries, including cashmere., ,"In the absence of commitment across global and local scales, the iconic wildlife of the world's highest mountains and great steppes will cease to persist as they have for millennia ²². Rather than serving as symbols of success, these species will become victims of fashion," said Peter Zahler, WCS Deputy Director for Asia Programs., ,This study was supported by the Snow Leopard Trust, Trust for Mutual Understanding, National Geographic Society, Whitley Fund for Nature, and the British Broadcasting Company Wildlife Fund